The recent rebranding of the Aunt Jemima brand by Quaker Foods in response to societal pressure has sparked criticism from the descendants of the original Aunt Jemima, including her great-grandson, Larnell Evans Sr. In a recent interview with Patch, Evans expresses deep disappointment over what he sees as a diminishing of his family’s significant heritage.
Evans passionately declares, “This is an insult to my family and me. This is our history.” He strongly condemns what he perceives as the hypocrisy surrounding the entire rebranding process, arguing that the alleged racism actually stems from those who exploit images reminiscent of slavery. “This corporation profits from representations of our enslavement. Now their decision is to erase the history of my great-grandmother, a Black woman. It’s painful.”
The Origins of Aunt Jemima
The Aunt Jemima character dates back to 1893, when Nancy Green, a former slave, became the brand’s face at the Chicago World’s Fair. Employed by the company, Green, who worked as a cook on Chicago’s South Side, served pancakes to fair visitors while dressed in an apron and headscarf, a role she embraced until her death in 1923. According to Evans, his grandmother, Anna Short Harrington, then continued the legacy.
Anna Short Harrington’s Legacy with Quaker Foods
Harrington, renowned for her delicious pancakes enjoyed by fraternity members at Syracuse University, where she worked as a cook, saw her life change unexpectedly at the New York State Fair in 1935. It was there, while serving her homemade pancakes, that she caught the attention of a Quaker Foods representative.
Shortly thereafter, the company hired Harrington and used her image in advertisements and on products, making her a recognizable figure nationwide. Over the next two decades, Harrington traveled extensively across the United States and Canada, serving pancakes while portraying “Aunt Jemima” during her association with the Quaker Oats Company.
Evans’ Position on Heritage Preservation
Evans, a 66-year-old disabled U.S. Marine veteran, vehemently opposes what he perceives as the erasure of his family’s history, stating, “Imagine how it feels for me, as a Black man, to talk about my family’s history, which they are trying to erase.”
He asserts that Quaker Foods even used Harrington’s pancake recipe without adequately compensating her heirs. In 2014, her descendants sought $3 billion from the company in unpaid royalties, but their efforts were unsuccessful.
Evans’ Call for Acknowledgment
Instead of completely removing these images from public view, Evans suggests that Quaker Foods should acknowledge the profits made from the depictions of Green and Harrington, and the imagery associated with slavery. “How many people grew up seeing Aunt Jemima at breakfast? How many companies made huge profits without giving us anything? They can’t just erase it while we continue to suffer.”
He adds, “They’re erasing history as if it never happened after making all that money. They won’t compensate us, will they? Who gave them the right?”
Despite Evans’ strong sentiments, Quaker Foods stands by its decision to phase out Aunt Jemima branding and artwork from all products by the year’s end.
