Ingrid Newkirk, co-founder of People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), vividly remembers a time when fur was a symbol of status. But those days are long gone, thanks in large part to PETA’s relentless efforts to transform the fashion industry’s use of fur.
PETA’s tactics have been anything but conventional. From dramatic protests involving the throwing of red paint to high-impact media campaigns, the organization has successfully pressured major fashion brands to abandon fur. Calvin Klein, one of the early adopters of fur-free fashion, made the decision after PETA stormed its New York office in 1994. The same year, PETA launched its iconic advertisements featuring naked supermodels who proclaimed their preference for nudity over wearing fur. The rise of social media and a wider cultural conversation around ethical consumption further pushed the industry towards ditching fur. Luxury brands like Gucci, Chanel, Versace, and Kering have all joined the fur-free movement.
While fur still occasionally appears on runways, its sale is now illegal in California and Israel. Furthermore, the Covid-19 outbreaks in European mink farms dealt a severe blow to the fur industry’s reputation.
But PETA’s mission doesn’t end with fur. The organization aims to make other animal-derived materials, such as wool, leather, and down, equally unacceptable. PETA highlights issues like live plucking and the poor conditions in which sheep and cattle are farmed, transported, and slaughtered.
Challenging leather and wool presents a new set of hurdles. Leather goods are a major sales driver in the industry, and vegan alternatives often have their own drawbacks. Most brands are unwilling to abandon leather or wool, even luxury companies that have committed to going fur-free. PETA, however, remains undeterred, as similar arguments were made about fur four decades ago.
According to Ingrid Newkirk, when it comes to animal suffering, the food industry tops the list, followed closely by the clothing industry. PETA aims to bring about change in both sectors.
The Market is Shifting An increasing number of companies are exploring alternative materials to cater to a growing consumer base seeking climate-friendly, animal-friendly, and socially responsible products. Danish brand Ganni has committed to eliminating virgin leather to meet its climate targets. Companies like Kering, Prada, and Hermès are experimenting with biofabricated materials grown from mycelium, the root structure of fungi.
However, these alternative materials are still in the early stages of development. They are often expensive, produced in limited quantities, and do not match the quality of leather unless blended with significant amounts of plastic. Finding vegan alternatives for wool is even more challenging.
For many consumers, wool and leather are seen as everyday materials with less ethical baggage than fur or exotic skins. Cows and sheep are not raised solely for their pelts and skins, unlike minks or crocodiles. But PETA argues that the industry’s treatment of animals in wool and leather production is equally cruel. While brands often cite responsible farming standards, PETA insists that these certifications do not hold much weight. The organization employs powerful imagery and stories of mistreatment to wake people up to the harsh realities.
